Care sheets

Silkworm Bombyx mori - high calcium and easily digestible

Welcome to an amazing species with a rich history over thousands of years for silk production. Silk is the strongest natural fibre known to man, even stronger than steel. Silkworms are a great learning aid for students and also make great food for birds, frogs, lizards and so on. 

• Enclosure: Small plastic takeaway containers are good for the first week or so with a lid on to keep moisture up therefore leaves/food doesn't dry out too quick. Avoid condensation build up though so increase air holes or leave a gap between the lid. After the first week a larger show box type enclosure is ideal with no lid required. The silkworms are drawn to the food and should not wander. 

• Temperature: Keep between 20°C and 25°C for optimum growth. 

• Substrate: Paper towels or even newspaper work well. Move to a fresh enclosure with substrate atleast weekly.  

• Food: Feed daily with either fresh mulberry leaves or the premix food on this website. If feeding leaves note they will not move onto the premix. If feeding premix they will happily move onto leaves if need be. Starting silkworms on premix is often easier and less labor intensive. 

• Eggs: should hatch between 7-14days if kept at 24°C longer at cooler temps (not advised for eggs). Feed small amounts of food as soon as they hatch on either fresh young mulberry leaves twice daily or the silkworm premix food 1-2 times daily available on the live silkworm page of this website. Keep the lid on for the first few days but watch for condensation and open the lid slightly if drips form. Eggs have already been hibernated prior to dispatch. Please do not put in a fridge at this stage as they are already developing.

• Cocooning: after around five to eight weeks of rapid growth the silkworms take themselves off to the side of the feeding area and will begin looking for a place to cocoon. This is a good time to transfer them to a clean area with either egg trays or toilet rolls for them to make their cocoons in. 

• Moths / Breeding: after approx two weeks in the cocoon at 24°C the moth will emerge. Place on newspaper substrate and they will mate and lay eggs on the paper for a few days then pass on having completed their lifecycle. Some eggs may hatch after 14-21days and what doesn't hatch needs hibernation for a few months in a fridge before those too will hatch. 

• Avoid sunlight. Extreme temperatures. Keep clean to avoid disease. They are very easy care and after thousands of years of domestication for silk these are 100% dependent on us to preserve this species as they are no longer found in the wild. Silkworms have been kept in New Zealand since the 1800's so we are very fortunate a few keepers have kept them going for us to enjoy today. 

Crickets Teleogryllus commodus - complete protein staple feeder insect

Remove from shipping packaging ASAP - Open box over your housing container of choice and gently shake crickets out.

• Housing: At least a 20L plastic tub (50L easily houses 50-100 adult crickets) or similar container with smooth sides to prevent escape. Crickets cannot climb smooth surfaces.

• Temperature: Store at room temperature, between 15°C to 25°C.

• Substrate: None required.

• Food: Provide vegetables for added nutrients and hydration. Always provide fresh veggies at a minimum as these are not only food but also a source of water. Sliced carrot or potato is recommended.

• Water: Fresh veges daily is often enough. Or you can supply water in the form of wet cotton wool for young crickets or a shallow dish for larger crickets. Not too deep or they will drown!

• Feeding out: Cardboard egg cartons provide a dark place for insects to congregate and can make easier collection for feeding. Aim to feed out crickets of your size within 2 weeks.

• Avoid damp environment full stop.

Soldier Grubs® aka Black Soldier Fly Larvae Hermetia Illucens - high calcium staple feeder insect

Keep larvae in the compostable shipping container for upto 2 weeks with minimal, if any, care.

• Temperature: Store at room temp. Larvae will develop faster in warm temperatures. 10°C - minimal development vs. 20°C - rapid development

• Substrate: Keep larvae in shipping medium. If substrate dries out add several drops of water.

• Food: No additional food or water needs to be added to the housing container.

• Feeding Out: Sieve off substrate and/or pick out larvae, then feed out. (Optional for extra clean - Place larvae in a sieve and rinse with lukewarm water, then feed out). Aim to feed out all larvae within 2 weeks.

• Feed darker grubs first as they are more advanced/developed. Otherwise if left for 1 - 2 weeks, flies may emerge (can be very difficult to hatch! Flies themselves are great frog food).